jeonju, south korea

May 15

tips for a trip to JEONJU, SOUTH KOREA
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1. about the city
2. what to do here
places to go
things to eat
1. the gallery

correlating video: coming soon

guide updated 22.08.29

If you enjoy history, nature, and eating, exploring Jeonju may be a perfect way to spend your weekend. You will find some tips on how to get there, where to stay, and what to do below!

JEONJU, SOUTH KOREA

about the city

The city of Jeonju is located in central Jeollabuk-do and although small compared to Seoul, Busan, and Daegu, the importance of Jeonju in Korean history is immense. It’s one of the oldest cities in Korea and was a strategic point of civil and military administration; there are remains of historical buildings scattered throughout the tame landscape.

The hanja for “Jeonju” can translate to “perfect region” (全 — 전 — jeon — perfect, 州 — 주 — ju — region), but can be expanded upon to mean “the whole people cross the sea”. This can be interpreted as “flawlessly winning through the wind-wave of rough sea and building a country that is well-arranged and has everything” (jeonju.go.kr). History has proved this to be true: being the root of the Joseon Dynasty, where heroes saved ancient texts from Japanese invaders, and where kings celebrated their victories are only a few of the moments that have left a mark on the city. You can learn more by touring museums, historical sites, or just by feeling the soul of the city as you walk down the street.

what to do here

The city is slow-paced and the skyline is low, only a few high-rise apartment buildings are clustered around. If you are expecting something earth-shatteringly modern, you won’t find it here.

Instead, you’ll be able to visit the Hanok Village, eat decent food, visit museum after museum, experience cultural festivals (if your timing is right), try a variety of snacks, and feel the depth of history entangled within Jeonju.

There are two musts in this city: walk the Hanok Village and try out Jeonju bibimbap, everything else will depend on what you want to get out of your trip and when you go. However, I do recommend Jeonju for those who love history, don’t mind walking, and are willing and able to eat an exorbitant amount of food. For those who want a luxurious vacation, you may be disappointed.

My personal Jeonju must-dos are:

Stay in a hanok
Walk the Hanok Village (전주한옥마을) and try out different snacks
Buy the famous Poongneon (풍년) chocolate pies and local fresh fruit mochi (생과일 모찌/찹쌀떡)
Visit the Mural Village (자만벽화마을)
Go to the Irregular Market (전주난장)
Read your way through Gyeonggijeon Shrine (경기전)
Eat yukhoe bibimbap (육회 비빔밥)

I suggest walking through any of the historical sites that interest you and reading whatever you can (not all of the information is in English, but a lot is). You can learn a lot about Korean history. For plaques that aren’t in English, try using the photo feature on Papago.

Here is a Kakao Map folder with all of my recommendations (restaurants, cafes, museums, activities, etc.).

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BEFORE TRAVELING

Before any trip, there are three things you must do:

make a plan
reserve an accommodation
purchase transportation tickets

These steps seem pretty simple (and they are), but traveling to a new country or city and having no references can make curating a plan difficult. I’m guessing that’s why you found my website in the first place. Here are my tips and advice for traveling Jeonju:

make a plan

How much time do you want to spend in the area and when? What you do truly depends on time. I think Jeonju is a place where you can go for a day trip and see everything you want, but if you want to leisurely experience more than a few locations, a 2 or 3-day trip would be perfect.

Make sure to check opening times for the places you want to go to. For example, Nambu Night Market is only open Friday and Saturday. Also, check out the times for any festivals or events you might want to see. Jeonju has a variety of different festivals: from film to music to food. The film festival itself is worth planning a trip for.

If you’re spending a few weeks in Korea and plan on visiting Jeonju but are not sure when to go, seeing if any events are taking place is a great idea.

Jeonju city blog has articles written in English and is updated weekly. There are recommendations for different places to eat, things to do, as well as talking about different festivals, performances, and other activities. Although most of the blog posts talking about festivals are reviews of what occurred that year, it’s nice to see what went on to scout out if it looks like something you’d enjoy. To find festivals that are upcoming or currently being held, I’d suggest searching “전주 축제” (Jeonju festival) on Naver. Because all of the results will be in Korean, you can translate the page using Google Chrome or in the Naver app via Papago (press the 3 dots at the bottom right, scroll to the second page, click the top right icon, click the right button that says “번역").

find a place to stay

I highly, highly recommend staying in a renovated hanok — although small and pricy, it’s a very cool experience. There are some exceptionally nice ones, too, if you really want to ball out, but a hanok on the cheaper side is great. You won’t spend too much time inside, anyway, right?

If you want to save as much money as possible, there are ways to stay in a hanok without dropping loads of money: sharehouses. You won’t have the whole place to yourself (just a room), but it can be a fun experience for those who like to make friends.

Most hanoks in the area are on Airbnb, but you can book directly with the owners, too. A hiccup with a direct booking is that sometimes they do not want to book with foreigners and will either ignore your request or cancel on you, even if you can speak Korean (it’s happened to me and my friends before). So I really do recommend going with a booking website like Airbnb (where they will, instead, write “no foreigners” on their page… and subsequently, you can report them for being xenophobic). Also, please remember that Photoshop exists and people for sure use it to their advantage when making advertisements for their properties. I’ve been to quite a few “pensions” that were anything but.

Regardless if you stay in a hanok or not, I do recommend keeping near the Hanok Village, as most tourist locations are in this area.

get your tickets

Korea is small. You can travel from one end of the country to the other in half a day. But getting to Jeonju via train can be a little tricky — it usually won’t be a straight shot. Because of the geography surrounding the area (ocean to the west and thick mountains to the east), your best option to get to Jeonju is by express bus unless you are coming from the north.

There are two bus terminals in Jeonju: Jeonju Express Bus Terminal and Jeonju Intercity Bus Terminal (technically a third if you count Jeonju Airport Limousine Terminal). The difference between the two is simple: express buses are from city to city (i.e. Busan to Jeonju); intercity buses connect cities and towns nearby (i.e. Gunsan to Jeonju). If you take an express bus, you will end up at the Jeonju Express Bus Terminal. If you take an intercity bus, you will end up at Jeonju Intercity Bus Terminal. These bus terminals are right next to each other, so if you make a mistake and go to the wrong one, it would take less than 10 minutes to walk to the correct terminal. Don’t sweat it too much! All bus terminals are in the city center so the transportation time to and from tourist areas is an easy ~30 minutes by bus.

If you are coming from the northwest, you can usually get a direct train. If you insist on taking the train from anywhere else, there is no direct train to Jeonju. You will have to transfer in Shintanjin or Osong (both located north of Jeonju near Sejong and Daejeon), wait for the next train, and then take your connection. The train station is on the east side of the city.

To buy your bus or train ticket, you can use a few different apps and websites; I suggest using Express Bus for bus tickets and KorailTalk for train tickets.

The price of your ticket will depend on where you are coming from.

If you are coming from Seoul, a bus will cost you around ₩22,000 for “excellent” class and ₩15,000 for economy. It takes around 3 hours. From Seoul via a direct KTX train, it’ll take about 2 hours and will cost around ₩35,000.
If you are coming from Busan, a bus will cost around ₩26,000 for “excellent” class and ₩17,000 for economy. It also takes 3 hours. From Busan via KTX, it’ll take 2 trains, 3 hours, and cost around ₩58,000 for both trains.

If you are coming from Seoul and only going to Jeonju for a day, having a few extra hours could mean the difference between exploring a few more locations or not, so I’d splurge on the KTX. From Busan it’s a no-brainer. Buy the bus ticket.

transportation and accessibility

Weather depending, it’s an easy city to walk: few hills and beautiful views. Jeonju doesn’t have subway lines, but city buses and taxis are available. If you need to use a city bus, you can use your T-Money/Cashbee card.

You don’t need to rent a car unless you plan on going to neighboring cities. And, honestly, the only time you will need to take the city buses is to and from the express bus terminal or train station. You can walk to basically everywhere else — the tourist area of Jeonju is that small.

Accessibility-wise, there are not many steep hills en route to specific locations you’d want to visit (or hills at all, for that matter); but, like in the rest of Korea, there are a lot of small steps and entrances to buildings without any ramps. If you need a mobility aid or have a physical disability that impacts your movement, you may find the lack of ramps an issue. The majority of the historical locations are not wheelchair friendly, as the paths are a mix of dirt, grass, and stepping stones. There are some areas with a smooth concrete path, but it is an exception and not the norm. There are also few elevators, as they are only required if the building is over 5 stories.

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RECOMMENDATIONS

There are a lot more places to go, things to do, and things to eat in Jeonju besides those just on this list. The following are only what I’ve experienced and can personally recommend, so if you know of any other fun place, please let me know! Also, before visiting any location, please double-check the operational times and fees. Some times may change with the seasons.

Again, here is a Kakao Map folder with all of my recommendations (restaurants, cafes, museums, activities, etc.).

places to go

Hanok Village
전주한옥마을

The Hanok Village is a small area in Jeonju where traditional Korean homes – Hanok – are preserved and clustered around, making it a great tourist location for Koreans and non-Koreans alike. It used to be home to more traditional workshops but has since turned into a place with food stalls and trinket stores. You can rent hanbok – traditional Korean clothing – and take pictures in nearby historical sites.

A note on renting hanbok: no, it is not offensive if you (a non-Korean) wear traditional garb as long as you aren’t being disrespectful with it. Also, anyone of any gender can wear any type of hanbok; this means that if you are a dude and want to wear the jacket and skirt combo, you can. If you are a trans-non-binary person who wants to wear a warrior’s hanbok and walk around with a prop sword, you can. Korean people of all genders mix and match hanbok, and that means you can too. Although some of the hanbok renters may recommend wearing a certain type, you can always refuse that recommendation and wear what you want.

Replacing dinner with snacks in the Hanok Village will cost you around ₩20,000 or more per person (depending on your appetite).

Look to spend an hour or so walking through the central area and checking out different shops. If you plan on buying non-food souvenirs, you’ll spend around ₩15,000 to ₩20,000. Because the Hanok Village is comprised of many different businesses, the operational times may vary, but it is usually from 09:00 to 18:00.

Confucian School
전주향교 명륜당

The Confucian School was a Confucian temple and school during the Joseon Dynasty. It was built in 1354 but has been relocated twice after a few wars.

Look to spend around 30 to 60 minutes here while spending no money at all (unless you need to park a car, then look to spend a few thousand won).

Omokdae
오목대

This is where King Taejo held a banquet for friends and family after his victory at the Battle of Hwangsan. This is a great place to see the Hanok Village, as it is on top of a small hill overlooking the city of Jeonju. It’s great to hike during the day as well as at night.

Look to spend around 30 minutes here (including hiking and enjoying the view). Omokdae is free to visit and open 24 hours a day.

Gangam Calligraphy Museum
강암서예관

The Gangam Calligraphy Museum celebrates the life and work of Gang Am (강암), who is considered the last scholar of Joseon. You can see his artwork along with explanations, tools, and figurines.

Spend around 30 to 40 minutes here. It is free to enter and open from 09:00 to 18:00.

Gyeonggijeon Shrine
경기전

This is a large establishment – whose name means “the auspicious site where the dynasty arose” – enshrines the royal family of Kim Taejo of the Joseon Dynasty. There are many interesting buildings, information on historical Korea and the importance of specific artifacts, and the landscaping surrounding the buildings is quite beautiful even in winter. The trees here have a lot of significance, so try to read about them while you visit.

You may be wondering why there is an elementary school right next door to the shrine, and well, the answer is simple: colonialism. The entire campus of Gyeonggijeon used to be larger, but a portion of it was knocked down by Japanese colonizers to build a school.

The shrine is open from 09:00 to 19:00 and costs ₩3,000 for adults to enter. Look to spend around an hour wandering around.

Pungnammun Gate
풍남문

Pungnammun was the southern entrance to the fortress wall surrounding Jeonju. There used to be gates in each direction, but now only this gate remains.

It is very impressive and cool to look at, but you can’t really walk around it too much. You’ll spend about 20 minutes (if that) here and it’s free to see.

Jeolla Provincial Government Office
전라감영

This is where the government officials worked in the Joseon Dynasty and controlled most of the southwest region of Korea. I really enjoyed walking through the old government building; however, you will probably only spend around 20 minutes here. It is free to enter.

Pungpaeji Hall
전주풍패지관

Pungpaeji Hall is yet another structure in the city of Jeonju that is a relic of the past; it was a place where various ceremonies were performed for kings.

It’s cool to walk past and look around, but don’t expect to spend more than 20 minutes here. It is free to enter.

Nambu Market
남부시장

During the day, Nambu Market is like any other market in Korea. But at night, a lot of people go to enjoy food stalls. Be careful, though, the night market is only open a few days a week (Thursday and Friday). Look to spend around ₩20,000 per person (depending on your appetite).

Jeonju Irregular Market
전주난장

This is one of my favorite places in Jeonju – the Irregular Market. It is a look into Korea’s past but doesn’t limit the experience to only a single period in time. You can experience Korea from way back when to only a few decades ago.

It is really fun to experience. It costs 7,000 won for an adult to enter; it’s a bit more on the expensive side, but it is really worth it. Plus there are free snacks near the end of the museum (sweet potatoes and popcorn). You will spend around an hour here exploring all of the different crevices hidden away. Really make sure to take your time so you don’t miss anything!

Jaman Mural Village
자만벽화마을

Near Omokdae, there are various murals painted on the sides of buildings in a quiet neighborhood (yes, people do live here, so please be quiet and do not destroy their property). Take as many pictures as you want and enjoy a few different cafés within the village.

It is free to enter and you will spend about 30 minutes walking around, not including time spent at a café.

things to eat

Taejo's Table
태조밥상

restaurant

I was brought to this traditional Korean restaurant by a Jeonju native, and if the quality and experience are something someone who grew up in the city trusts, then it for sure is worth going to. The food was good and the owners were very kind. There were also tons of banchan (side dishes) if that’s something you’d like to experience.

Shinbaengi
신뱅이

restaurant

Since it’s in the Hanok Village, the inside is decorated to match the aesthetic. There are so many windows within the building with a view leading out to a small garden. I suggest having a kimchi pancake with white kimchi and bean sprout soup – it won't come with too many side dishes, but it will taste like a homemade meal.

Korean House
한국집

restaurant

This place is one of the many famous in the area for bibimbap; there are quite a few side dishes and the food comes out very quickly. I suggest eating the yukhoe bibimbap; it is fresh and flavorful.

If you’ve never had bibimbap before, you’ll really enjoy it. If you have eaten homemade bibimbap (especially made by your mom or grandma… or a friend’s mom or grandma), then don’t expect too much. A lot of people make Jeonju bibimbap out to be super magical, but it tastes just like a homemade meal. There is nothing super special about it in my opinion (plus it’s not like anything can beat your grandma’s version of this dish anyway).

"Two Aunt" Café
두이모

café

At this café tucked within the Jaman Mural Village, there is a bibimbap waffle. It’s an interesting snack that tastes just like crunchy bibimbap. The coffee is decent and I really enjoyed the beetroot and lemon tea, too.

"Second View" Tea House
차경

café

This is a café for traditional tea and snacks; the inside is decorated to match the area surrounding it. It’s very relaxing, especially if you sit near a window (or outside if the weather is right) so you can watch the leaves waving in the breeze. Make sure to try a traditional tea, like jujube. There are small cakes to snack on as well!

Romantium
로맨티움

café — open 09:00-16:00

If you are taking the bus, try to stop by this café to enjoy some refreshments and cakes. It has a lovely atmosphere on the inside.

Poongneon
PNB풍년

snacks

This shop sells famous chocopies that are lightyears better than anything you can buy at a convenience store. I really like the original flavor the most (chocolate), but there are many others to try. I suggest getting a variety box to eat with friends for breakfast during your stay and then picking up another box of your favorite flavors just for yourself before you leave. There are many PNB stores around Jeonju (and you can even buy their products online), but it’s worth getting a box while in the city. Make sure to not buy a knock-off chocopie, though!

If you are allergic to nuts, beware. There are nuts on the inside most of the flavors. “견과류 알레르기” is “nut allergy” in Korean; if you want to make sure the flavor you are trying does not contain nuts, please make sure to ask the staff. If you have a severe allergy, you more than likely would not be able to eat any of the flavors as Korea doesn’t take allergies super seriously. There would more than likely be cross-contamination and therefore some nut residue/dust on all products.

by freesia1092. i ate mine too fast to take a picture.

Fresh Fruit Mochi
생과일찹쌀떡

snacks

I love this little store with all my heart; the owner is super kind and gives great recommendations. There are many flavors of mochi and although I suggest trying one of each, do not skip out on strawberry. Wrapped in a chewy outside, a layer of red bean paste, with a fresh piece of fruit tucked inside makes it a perfectly refreshing snack.

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A WEEKEND TRIP

day 1

ITINERARY

Arrive in Jeonju late Friday
Go to your accommodation (a hanok) to drop off your items
Walk the Hanok Village (한옥마을) and try out different snacks for dinner
Buy some sweets and snacks for Saturday and Sunday’s breakfast

day 2

ITINERARY

Eat breakfast at your accommodation
Hike Omokdae (오목대)
Visit Jaman Mural Village (자만벽화마을) and try the bibimbap waffle at Two Aunt Café (두이모)
Go to Irregular Market (전주난장)
Explore Jeolla Provincial Government Office (전라감영)
See Poongnam Gate (풍남문) and walk Nambu Market (남부시장)
Read your way through Gyeonggijeon Shrine (경기전)
Drink traditional tea at “Second View” Tea House (차경)
Have dinner at a restaurant like Shinbaengi (신뱅이) or Taejo’s Table (태조밥상)

day 3

ITINERARY